Robert Edward Machado (born October 16, 1973) is an American professional surfer.[1][2] Rob competed on the World Surf League Championship Tour from 1993-2001. Since then he has become a professional free surfer.[3] (wikipedia)
I've been very lucky, getting to travel the world with professional photographers. I'd grab their equipment, get a few lessons, and start firing shots.
I've never actually even contemplated writing a book or having a book.
You'd be surprised how cold you get in the water, especially surfing a place like Pipeline. If the tradewinds are blowing, it gets chilly and sometimes you don't catch a wave for an hour.
One meal I'm constantly reminded about is when I ate kangaroo tail in the desert in Australia; it wasn't necessarily my favorite, but I will always remember it.
Truthfully, I despise hotels. I've had such better experiences staying at people's houses and guesthouses; it's so much more comfortable and homey.
I think I'm one of the most fortunate people in the world. I travel around looking for the best waves and appreciate it every second.
Nothing could happen to me in the water that would make me want to go on the beach and fight someone. That's just not how I do things.
We dream of the perfect wave, the perfect job, the perfect house, the perfect love, and when we get there, we dream of something else, and the journey goes on.
The surfing - the waves in Indonesia are amazing.
I've always been a big supporter of the Surfrider Foundation. I started my own foundation, Rob Machado Foundation, which focuses on environmental education for the little people of the world.